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As a convenience to both our customers and ourselves, we are starting a list of Frequently Asked Questions with answers. We will add to this page as more questions come in.
1.)Q:How do I determine the right size ring or bracelet? A: We recommend actually going to a local jeweler and determine your size using their tools, but you can use a piece of string and wrap it around either your finger or wrist. Don't pull it tight, but don't leave it too loose either. Mark the points where the string intersects or crosses. Then measure the distance between the intersecting points. This is a primitive way of sizing and we do recommend going to a local jeweler to find out your correct size. Click Here to read more and see charts showing cross references.
2.)Q:Do you have a return policy? A: Yes we do! We understand that shopping on the Internet can be very trying and pictures can be confusing in size and color to say the least. Different computer monitors show colors differently and we blow up most of the pictures to show detail. That's one reason why we add a detailed description along with measurements and weights to somewhat help you mentally comprehend at least the size and weight of the item. We do offer a 15 day return on items. We are human and understand that certain circumstances warrant an extended period such as gift giving during the Christmas/Holiday season. You can read more by clicking on RETURN POLICY.
3.)Q:What do you mean when you list an item as"Vintage"? A: When we list an item as vintage we are relaying to the viewer that the piece is at least 25 years old or older. When possible, we try to add a more accurate time frame in the items description.
4.) Q: Are all your listings Native American made? A: Approximately 95% to 98% of our items are Native American made, but we do carry some Mexican and Southwest designed pieces. We describe those pieces as such in our descriptions as either Mexican, Southwest, and/or non-native made. Some of our pendants may come with a sterling silver chain made in Italy. We do not carry any items made overseas in China, Japan, Philippines, or Thailand with the exception of our watchfaces, watch stretchbands, and possibly other similar suppiles.
5.) Q: Do you offer discounts and/or specials? A: We are straight forward and try to offer the lowest price to the consumer on our daily everyday pricing. Our prices automatically reflect a 25% discount or more from the recommended retail price daily. We do occasionally offer FREE SHIPPING, discounted shipping, or a percentage off with a promotional code. We see a lot of the other retailers marking up prices well over recommended retail and constantly offering 20% - 50% off and/or free shipping. We personally have noticed even with their discounts figured in our total bottom line price is still less than most competitors discounted with "free" shipping prices.
6.) Q: Do you offer or include a Certificate of Authenticity or COA? A: We will include a COA if requested for items we positively know are Native American Made or Mexican Made. We do have a few items that come directly from the artist and are signed by the artist that a COA will be included with the item. We also have a few items that were bought from other galleries that included a COA when we bought them which we will pass along with the item. Most silversmiths don't offer COA's unless the item is strictly a "One-of-a-Kind" piece of wearable art. We can acknowledge that we bought the item from a Native silversmith/artist and guarantee it is indeed a Native American Made piece. Click Here to read a good article concerning COA's and how the public view the inclusion of a COA.
7.)Q:Why does the item look larger in some pictures and smaller in others? A: We oversize some pictures to show detail workmanship. We do include actual measurements and weights on the main description page of each item.
8.) Q: How do I determine the right length of stretchband for my watchband?
A: You'll need to have the length of the watch measured from watch pin to watch pin that you'll be attaching to the watchband. Take that measurement and add the watch tip measurement twice. Subtract that total from your actual wrist size and that total will be the length of the stretchband you'll need. For example, the watch measurement is 1". Each watch tip measures 1 1/8" so add two watch tips which will be 2 1/4". You now have a total of 3 1/4". If your wrist size is 6 1/4" you'll subtract 3 1/4" which leaves 3". You'll need a 3" stretchband. If you don't want it to wear too tight go up to the next size of 3 1/8". Hope this doesn't confuse you more!
9.) Q: What do you mean when you state an item as Vintage, Old Pawn, or Collectible?
A:
Vintage - any piece that is at least 25 yrs old or older.
Old Pawn - we rarely use that term. The real meaning for old pawn was a personal or family heirloom that was put into pawn for money to get through the summer months. Native's would get a loan to buy seed, supplies, etc to get through the summer months and pay it back in the fall or winter after harvest. Old Pawn items would be items the family unfortunately wouldn't or couldn't afford to get back out of pawn and loose the item(s). When that would happen the pawn shop would put the item(s) up for sale to the public to get their money back. An article in an early Arizona Highways book (believe it was May or July of 1974?) stated that only 5% of the jewelry/art on the market was real old pawn. Saying that in early 1970's, I would say there is less than 1% on the market that would be considered old pawn now. There's a lot of vendors that have taken the term "old pawn" to mean anything lost in pawn. My opinion is those type of pieces are not old pawn. There's way too many silversmiths now that make stuff for the tourist trade (not a family heirloom) and will sell into pawn for fast cash instead of waiting until someone comes along and buys it.
Collectible - When we list an item as collectible, we are stating that it's either desired by collectors now or will become collectible in the near future. I base that on the quality of the craftsmanship (high end, age, "one of a kind", not specifically made for the tourist trade, etc) combined with the popularity of the artist and whether the artist is still alive. We do consider some of the very old tourist trade jewelry and art as collectible due to it's relation of a certain era such as "Harvey Era" or jewelry Fred Harvey commissioned from native silversmiths and craftspeople for his chain of restaurants and hotels along the train routes out west to California. Some good references of popular Native silversmiths and artists are Charles Loloma, Preston Monongye, his son Jesse Monongye, Kenneth Begay, Fred Kabotie, Paul Saufkie, and many more. Unfortunately for the artist, death of an artist makes a piece they created while alive a collectible piece. A good example would be Tommy Singer. His early work from 70's - 80's although were already collectible due to his popularity and style, are now becoming very collectible due to his untimely death from a motorcycle accident in 2014. Although Mr Singer at the time of his death wasn't making most of the jewelry, but was creating the design and had silversmiths working for him that made the jewelry. This jewelry was hallmarked with his full name and some followed with Goldcraft. I don't consider those pieces nearly as collectible. Collectible pieces are something rare and will never be made again by the artist. Collectible items would also include pieces that may have won a show ribbon such as 1st, 2nd, 3rd place ribbons by judges at different trade shows or Pow Wows.